How to Repair Turbochargers –gNewscar.com– Turbocharger repair-a car engine that has been using a turbocharger does require extra maintenance compared to non-turbocharger cars. Because if it is wrong to take care of turbo can be damaged where the new buy cost will be very expensive once to dozens also for turbochargers that small size.
Turbocharger maintenance is actually freemaintenance where we do not need to do demolition and cleaning of turbo components. More focused to note is the routine of engine oil change and radiator water, since these two components are later also used as lubrication and cooling systems within the turbocharger system.
Then the question is if we ignore the oil and radiator treatments and the turbochargers suffer damage, whether the turbocharger can be serviceable or repaired?. The answer of course can be, usually we need a replacement component or often called “repair kit ” that the price per set is also decent even though it is only a kit. The approximate repair kit itself is roughly about 2 to 3 million to a small turbo engine.
Is an effective turbo engine that is already in repair reused?
Most likely from some experience in the field turbo will not be able to last a long time, different from the condition before the repair that can last a dozen years.
Sometimes for turbo machine repair results in the term of a semester or year alone is already experiencing fussy back. It is very reasonable considering the material repair kits in the market are also different.
That is why the official workshops more suggest replacing new than servicing, although the new price can be more than 15JT rupiah for 1 unit of small turbo engine.
If calculated to replace new components even if it looks expensive more economical than repair that may be half a year the problem comes again, again and again imagine how much repair kit you should buy and also the install service that you should Prepare it later.
After replacing the turbo engine you should regularly change the oil on schedule, or sooner than the set schedule will be better. Similarly the radiator system. Hopefully useful.
How to Repair Turbochargers
Wastegate Turbocharger Check
Check the work of the wastegate. If the wastegate can not open perfectly then it will cause a problem overboost that triggers the detonation, but if wastegate stuck open position or can not close perfectly then the gas pressure ekshaust of the turbine wheel will leak so that the turbo charger is not able to generate the boost pressure. Try removing the linkage on the wastegate and move it by hand whether the wastegate can close perfectly.
In cars that do not have a turbocharged boost pressure gauge on the instrument panel use a vacuum/pressure gauge tool to measure pressure or stress on the intake manifold.
The vacuum/pressure gauge tool will measure the vaccine in units of Hg and measure the pressure in PSI units. The vacuum/pressure gauge tool should be mounted on the vacuum duct intake manifold and should not only be mounted on the vacuum hose holes that connect the intake manifold with the carburetor or throttle body.
Place the parking brake and transmission in neutral position or Parking, then turn the engine round a few times by stepping on the accelerator in full. The pointer needle on LAT vacuum/pressure gauge must move from vacuum position to boost position as the engine round increases. The manufacturer’s turbocharger boost pressure setting typically ranges from 9lb to 14lb.
If the turbocharger is not at all able to produce the boost pressure according to the specification or pressure under the standard, pay attention to the stress readings when the machine position is idle. In previous models, if no vaccine leakage or detainees in the exhaust flow will show 16 to 22 Hg in idle.
Pambacaan under this value indicates the possibility of excessive back pressure on the ekshaust duct or the occurrence of air leakage in the intake channel before the throttle body (check the turbocharger hose from the possibility of leaking or loose loss).
If the test result indicates that the vaccine is under normal circumstances but the turbocharger still cannot produce the boost pressure which should be the next step is to look for damage incurred in the turbocharger.
One of the most frequent causes of the turbocharger boost pressure loss is the breakdown in turbocharger shaft bearings that lead to excessive friction and resistance between the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel with the Housas. Turbochargers can spin at speeds above 100,000 rpm, so if there is an excessive oblation in the turbocharged shaft bearings it will result in wheel turbocharger coming into contact with the Housas.
Excessive friction will hamper the wheel of the turbocharger so that it is unable to generate maximum boost pressure.
The best way to check for bearing or contact issues between housing with a turbo wheel is to remove the plumbing intake or ekshaust from the turbocharger (whichever is easier) in order to peek inside the turbocharger.
If there are friction signs on the turbochargers or housing means that the bearings are Oblak and the turbocharger must be replaced or repaired.
Try to turn the turbine turbo by hand while feeling a rough or restrained round, if the turbine turbo cannot spin freely it needs to be repaired or replaced.
Another problem that should be examined is the presence of cracks, or abnormal conditions in the turbine wheel blades. The turbo propeller is a component that has a very precise balance. Average turbine turbochargers used in automotive are in-balancing up to 0.001 ounces.
The condition of the turbine wheel propeller that is cracked, worn or scratched can make an imbalance in the turbine rounds. Turbo may still be able to spin freely but the imbalances will make the rotation not reach the maximum rpm and will eventually make the shaft bearing not straight. There is no way to fix the imbalance of the rotating components, if there is an indication of damage then the only way is to do the replacement of components.
To check for bearing gaps there is no need to remove and disassemble the turbocharger parts, simply by using the indicator dial mounted on the SAHFT hub to inspect the freeplay bearing. Upper and lower shaft movements should not be more than 0.0762 mm to 0.1524 mm. Endplay should not be more than 0.0254 mm to 0.0762 mm.
If there is an indication of interference on the turbocharger then the turbocharger should Diloepaskan regardless if the later should be replaced or repaired. Thoroughly check the cause of the turbocharger damages so as not to repeat again after replacement or repair. The first thing to examine is the condition of the shaft bearing. Bearings usually suffer damage due to contaminated oil or also due to insufficient lubrication.
If there is scratches or wear on the bearing surface is an indication that the oil is dirty due to unfiltered. Check the oil filter’s possible cure. If the oil filter starts to clogged and bypass the open valve then the unfiltered oil will circulate to the turbocharger and the other machine parts.
If the inside of the bearing appears blackened as it burns the likelihood of oil that thickens into the cause. Turbocharger bearings get the cooling effect of circulating oil and during working temperature are within normal limits so as to prevent the occurrence of oil thickening. But when the engine is turned off, the temperature in the turbocharger housing can increase to 300 to 400 degrees Celsius.
Due to the heat, oil will suffer oxidation and form oil deposits in abrasive housing resulting in bearing wear.
Using high-temperature oil or synthetic oil, installing additional oil coolers, and conducting engine oil change every 5000 Km can prevent oil quality degradation and oil deposit formation.
In turbochargers with water cooler, oil deposit formation problems are smaller if oil change is done periodically and uses quality engine oil. So if there is an accumulation of oil deposits in the turbocharger housing try to check the cooling system hose from the possibility of being pinned or blocked.
Bearings look melted or shiny as an indication of the lack of lubrication. Check the amount of engine oil, oil leakage and the presence of oil channel obstruction between turbocharger and engine or engine oil pressure too low (minimum oil pressure for engine with Turbo is about 30 Psi)
The lack of a sling when the machine is turned off can be prevented in two ways, namely:
By letting the machine idle one or minutes before it is turned off after the hard run, it will give time to cool the turbo.
Installing an aftermarket reservoir that will automatically keep the oil pressure for a few minutes after the machine is turned off. Oil reservoirs will also put the initial pressure on the turbo oil channel to prevent the dry start from starting when the machine starts.
Not centre, cracked and ruptured bearings are usually caused by unsealed shafts and wheel assembly or excessive trailer openings.
The next thing to note is the condition of the compressor and turbine wheel. The cracks are usually caused by metal saturation, but the bending and damage of the propeller due to the presence of foreign objects about the propeller. If the propeller compressor wheel appears to be unsizzling the possibility of unfiltered dirty air into the intake system.
Last check the condition of the housing. Replace housing if cracked, corrosion or curved. Be careful not to buy housing made of ordinary cast iron material. Exhaust housing must be made of nickel alloy which is resistant to high temperature.
The safest is to install a new turbocharger or a remanufactured result to replace a faulty turbocharger. This not only avoids repeated damage, but also the warranty.